2003-07-09
When we last communicated we were going down the Oregon Coast. From the coast we turned inland at Neskowin and headed east. Managed to camp at a terrible RV campsite, rode 23 miles before turning south and having breakfast at Rick Reall, Or. This was also the first day that Bob used his sandals, which managed to disintegrate by the end of the day. We stayed in Corvallis on 6/28 and then headed for Eugene.
In Eugene we stayed at another hostel and then went out to Co-Motion (where our bikes were made). Did a factory tour and got some free water bottles and hats. Not sure what we were doing, we wandered back into Eugene and then riding out through Springfield only to find that there were no camping spots or motels for the next 30 miles. A bit of backtracking brought us back into Springfield and we managed to ride 32 miles and progress approximately 2 miles on our route.
Next morning (7/1) we were up and riding and rode 60 miles to Belknap Springs at the base of the McKenzie pass. The campground we stayed at was a resort with hot springs so we decided to take a rest day and do a bit of soaking in the hot springs. We also met another bicycle traveler (Eric) and split the cost of a campsite with him. Eric left the next morning for the McKenzie Pass climb while we rested.
The McKenzie Pass climb took us most of the day (7/3). It was a 22 mile climb with an elevation gain of over 4000 feet. We were exhausted by the time we reached the lava bed summit, but there were very good views. From the summit we descend about 15 miles into Sisters where several beers and drinks were called for.
For the 4th of July we rode about 50 miles through Redmond to a hiker/biker campground east of Prineville at Ochoco Lake. Having made friends with some RV people we manage to get a beer apiece for a retelling of our adventures. The terrain has really changed (from a lush mountain area to a high plateau dessert environment).
On July 5th we started for our second big pass, Ochoco Pass. This climb was large but much less steep then McKenzie. We had a nice descent followed by a partial climb up the next pass in the broiling sun. There is no shade anywhere now and it’s hot. We ended up in a little town where most of the stores were abandoned but had a nice (and free) city park available for camping. The next morning we continued up the remaining ¾ of Keyes Creek pass and were rewarded with a 25 mile descent into the John Day Fossil beds. We had intended to got further that day, but spent enough time at the exhibit that the sun was broiling in full force by the time we left. We ended up camping at the Presbyterian church in Dayville for free and had full access to their kitchen and a shower. Very nice.
We left Dayville on July 7th and did a long ride to another big climb (Dixie Pass) going through John Day and Parrie City. At the top of Dixie Pass we saw storm clouds moving in from the west and made our 7 mile descent into Austin Junction where the one and only building (post office, restaurant, general store) was closed. We ended up camping in a stony field behind the store with no bathrooms or picnic table.
July 8th we did two more short steeper passes and 60 miles into Baker City where we are currently resting. Baker City is one of the larger place we’ve been since Eugene with a population of 9,000. So tomorrow we’re headed off to the Oregon Border, the Oregon Trail associate museum and Devil’s Canyon.